These illustrations were scanned off from Weatherby factory catalogs, and
factory ID and part numbers. This is important
as about all obsolete parts suppliers use
factory or closely associated numbers
where ever possible so everyone is on the same page.
We thank Weatherby for supplying the above scanned picture
Weatherby Regency O/U Shotgun
The parts listed below are for your
identification purposes only.
The author of this website DOES NOT have any parts.
Illustration # 35, Cocking Rod cam O/S 12 ga. #3403.91
Illustration # 35, Cocking Rod cam N/S 12 ga. #3403.92
Illustration # 25, Firing Pin 12ga. #3459
WEATHERBY REGENCY -
These guns were made by Angelo Zoli of Italy &
sold to Weatherby.
Not to be confused by his brother Antonio Zoli.
Angelo has been out of business for MANY years & Antonio's guns,
(sold under the Zoli name) were NOT the same.
So NO spare parts are available, as the "factory"
made these pretty much on order and had very few spare parts
left even when the gun was discontinued.
guns however, in reality were not all made by the same manufacturer. As it was a "Cottage Industry", in that MANY small
independent gunsmiths participated in this venture. Some shops may have made the barrels, others the receivers,
still others the wood &/or engraving.
who knows the assembly, with probably no one person or shop doing the complete
GUNSMITHING THESE GUNS - It is not known whether these numbers shown on the above illustrated parts breakout are ID numbers OR part numbers.
The common thought is that firing pins are bad if miss-firing occurs.
This is not the case many times.
mainsprings will take a set after time. Also if reloads are being used & the primers happen to be
upset when being seated, the primers are slightly desensitized & with the
weak mainsprings this can lead to a miss-fire problem.
plunger end (MS pilot) has changed from the factory parts drawing. The parts drawing shows a non captivated unit.
All that I have seen are the threaded together captivated unit. These
units are made for RH & a LH in that they need to be installed on the pivot pin
so that the upper part of the hammer has clearance when cocked.
miss-firing is encountered, first look at the mainspring rebound to see if
someone has had it apart & inadvertently threaded the plunger unit together
enough to shorten it. You can lengthen this unit (unthread it) so that the force
of the mainspring is still applying at the point where the hammer is bottomed
If this does not solve the
problem, then you can make a spacer to go behind the front threaded end to
increase the mainspring tension.
is a fine line as you
will have to experiment with the thickness of this spacer to where the hammer
will still cock with the spacer installed.
hammers are basically a rebounding type stopped by the cocking rods.
If the above spacer still does not solve the problem, you can make firing
pins about .025 longer on the rear.
are essentially making them longer
somewhat converting the gun to non-rebounding hammers.
But these can't be too long in that they have to start to retract enough
when the gun is opened, so that they do not interfere with the opening of the
gun by dragging the firing pin tip out of & across the fired primer.
above situations are because, I
have not found any replacement mainspring that is strong enough.
The cocking rod cams are driven into a dovetail in
the rear of the forearm iron.
appear to be 2 different sizes as to width.
Information is not available from the factory as to serial numbers
change took place.
On one gun using
the old style cocking cam has a #1 stamped on top rear of the cam.
CAM - (Old Style .287 wide) appears to be the earlier version.
new style is a beefed up version in thickness and width.
ROD CAM -
(New Style .376/.383 wide).
dimensions are taken on the widest part of the dovetailed end. The cams have a
small round hole going almost all the way thru in the middle of the dovetailed
This is a removal indent.
You use a pin punch that will just fit the hole & drive the broken cam
rearward out of the dovetail.
fitting new cams, you may need to file the sides to fit a SNUG fit.
At this time
do not file much off the rear as this governs the overall length that
pushes against the pushes against the cocking rods.
They should be long enough so they cock the gun but do not leave the
opened gun hanging on this cam, as it needs to "Bottom Out".
Some replacement cams may need to be fitted as to OAL & rear
thickness for clearance to eliminate the chance of bumping the lower front of
are a few unique designs in this model.
is that the hinge pivot trunions are replaceable.
The reason is that they could not mill into a corner of the barrel's
They hollow end milled
this section from the outside, then made a ring that went over the now, center
peg, this ring was held in place by a small set screw.
matching receiver recess for this pivot ring was bored clear thru the receiver
There is then a plug
inserted into partial depth of this hole & again using a small set screw to
hold it in place.
It appears these guns were only made with 2 3/4" chambers.
guns seem to be very well made & the only known problems appear to be the
cocking rod cams & the weakening mainsprings.
This page under construction &
the parts listing may be added later
Copyright © 2004 - 2015
LeeRoy Wisner with credit given for original illustrations. All
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Originated 05-17-04 Last updated
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