Weatherby Regency Illustrated Parts List
Actual load times may take a while as these scanned pictures may be large, & depending on the speed of your computer & server
The drawings listed below are scanned off existing
factory catalogs, or existing books
These Illustrated parts Drawings are shown only to help you identify needed parts, they ARE NOT parts that are made or supplied by the host of this website
Most of these illustrations will be from factory catalogs, however some are taken from Frank de Haas's Single Shot Rifle book & are for identification only, & ARE NOT factory part numbers unless identified as such. This is important as about all obsolete parts suppliers use ONLY factory or closely associated numbers where ever possible so everyone is on the same page.
Note, for some of the older firearms, many over 100 years old, the factories never used what we now know as assembly drawings, but just views of many of the component parts & possibly randomly placed
We thank Weatherby for supplying the above scanned picture
Weatherby Regency O/U Shotgun
The parts listed below are for your
identification purposes only.
The author of this website DOES NOT have any parts.
Illustration # 35, Cocking Rod cam O/S 12 ga. #3403.91
Illustration # 35, Cocking Rod cam N/S 12 ga. #3403.92
Illustration # 25, Firing Pin 12ga. #3459
WEATHERBY REGENCY - These guns were made by Angelo Zoli of Italy &
sold to Weatherby.
Not to be confused by his brother Antonio Zoli.
Angelo has been out of business for MANY years & Antonio's guns,
(sold under the Zoli name) were NOT the same.
So NO spare parts are available, as the factory had very few spare parts
left even when the gun was discontinued.
guns however, in reality were not all made by the same manufacturer. As it was a "Cottage Industry", in that MANY small
independent gunsmiths participated in this venture. Some shops may have made the barrels, others the receivers,
still others the wood &/or engraving. And
who knows the assembly, with probably no one person or shop doing the complete
common thought is that the firing pins are bad if missfiring occurs.
This is not the case many times. The
mainsprings will take a set after time. Also if reloads are being used & the primers happen to be
upset when being seated, the primers are slightly desensitized & with the
weak mainsprings this can lead to a missfire problem.
plunger end (MS pilot) has changed from the factory parts drawing. The parts drawing shows a non captivated unit.
All that I have seen are the threaded together captivated unit. These
units are made for RH & a LH in that they need to be installed on the pivot pin
so that the upper part of the hammer has clearance when cocked.
missfiring is encountered, first look at the mainspring rebound to see if
someone has had it apart & inadvertently threaded the plunger unit together
enough to shorten it. You can lengthen this unit (unthread it) so that the force
of the mainspring is still applying at the point where the hammer is bottomed
out. If this does not solve the
problem, then you can make a spacer to go behind the front threaded end to
increase the mainspring tension. This
is a fine line as you
will have to experiment with the thickness of this spacer to where the hammer
will still cock with the spacer installed.
hammers are basically a rebounding type stopped by the cocking rods.
If the above spacer still does not solve the problem, you can make firing
pins about .025 longer on the rear. You
are essentially making them longer &
somewhat converting the gun to non-rebounding hammers.
But these can't be too long in that they have to start to retract enough
when the gun is opened, so that they do not interfere with the opening of the
gun by dragging the firing pin tip out of & across the fired primer.
above situations are because, I
have not found any replacement mainspring that is strong enough.
The cocking rod cams are driven into a dovetail in
the rear of the forearm iron. There
appear to be 2 different sizes as to width.
Information is not available from the factory as to serial numbers this
change took place. On one gun using
the old style cocking cam has a #1 stamped on top rear. #3403.91 COCKING ROD
CAM - (Old Style .287 wide) appears to be the earlier version. The
new style is a beefed up version in thickness and width.
#3403.92 COCKING ROD CAM -
(New Style .376/.383 wide). These
dimensions are taken on the widest part of the dovetailed end. The cams have a
small round hole going almost all the way thru in the middle of the dovetailed
section. This is a removal indent.
You use a pin punch that will just fit the hole & drive the broken cam
rearward out of the dovetail. In
fitting new cams, you may need to file the sides to fit a SNUG fit.
At this time
do not file much off the rear as this governs the overall length that
pushes against the pushes against the cocking rods.
They should be long enough so they cock the gun but do not leave the
opened gun hanging on this cam, as it needs to "Bottom Out".
Some replacement cams may need to be fitted as to OAL & rear
thickness for clearance to eliminate the chance of bumping the lower front of
are a few unique designs in this model. One
is that the hinge pivot trunions are replaceable.
The reason is that they could not mill into a corner of the barrel's
mono-block. They hollow end milled
this section from the outside, then made a ring that went over the now, center
peg, this ring was held in place by a small set screw.
matching receiver recess for this pivot ring was bored clear thru the receiver
sidewalls. There is then a plug
inserted into partial depth of this hole & again using a small set screw to
hold it in place.
It appears these guns were only made with 2 3/4" chambers.
guns seem to be very well made & the only known problems appear to be the
cocking rod cams & the weakening mainsprings.
This page under construction &
the parts listing may be added later
Copyright © 2004 - 2013
LeeRoy Wisner with credit given for original illustrations. All
Back to Ramblings
Originated 05-17-04 Last updated
to contact the author click here